Sunday, August 15, 2010

the day is long


TODAY I TOOK MY FIRST TRIP TO THE TEXAS WINE COUNTRY. I drove a group of 4 women — Duke grads who met 20+ years ago in college — down to Driftwood, where I dropped them off at a couple wineries while I took in the view when I wasn't enjoying the air conditioning in my cab.

One of the women, Julie, is an English teacher at Beverly Hills high school — breeding ground for entitled brats, hard-working immigrants and future superstars like Angelina Jolie and Lenny Kravitz. (Not to mention Pauly Shore and Monica Lewinsky for you fans of the D-listers.) A decade ago Julie was my next door neighbor in LA — our 3-unit building was about 13 yards from the Beverly Hills city line — who once invited me to speak to a couple of her writing classes about this book that I was working on at the time.

Ten years later I'm making $120 bucks for driving Julie and her friends around for the day in Austin. But don't cry for me Angelina. As you'll see if you continue reading these posts, I'm thoroughly enjoying the experience.

In the meantime, you can read about my first night ever in Austin right here.

...

Saturday, August 14, 2010

friday night lights




THE UNOFFICIAL TOWN SLOGAN HERE IS "KEEP AUSTIN WEIRD."
If you've never been here you may be wondering — What does this mean exactly? How can an entire town, the state capital of cowboy Texas no less, be WEIRD? And why are they so damn proud of it?

Hopefully this blog will shed some light on these and other Austin-related questions. Today's example of Weird Austin is the funky trailer in today's photo. This groovy little explosion of the entrepreneurial spirit is one of the many food trailers here in Austin. (For more on the trailer food vibe in town, check out this video I made a couple weeks ago.)


I haven't tasted the goodies at this particular trailer yet, but according to the menu they serve coffee drinks and pastries. But so far it's got my favorite name of all the food trailers. Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to...

Fat Cock.

Keepin' it weird.

.
..
...

In the two months since I've been on this job I've had at least 13 people invite me in for some post-work refreshments. Oh, and there was that blowjob offer. (No thanks, ma'am. I appreciate the offer though.) Most of the time I politely decline these friendly gestures. But last night I decided to roll with the Austin spirit
these are about the friendliest people in America and say yes to a friendly young dude who had moved to Austin even more recently than me.

Lee is an Italian kid in his early 20s from New Jersey. Lived there his whole life until 2 months ago. When I found out I was an Austin vet compared to Lee I had to take him up on his offer and find out what brought him here.

"I did a lot of research, dude," Lee said, surrounded by one of the more epic bachelor apartments I'd ever seen. There was single guy shit all over the floor clothes everywhere, pizza boxes, receipts, magazines, ticket stubs, water bottles. The only pieces of furniture were the new flat screen TV and the table it sat on. And, of course, the Playstation, with various gamer DVDs scattered near the TV. A few feet away was the bed Lee sleeps onthe biggest, baddest inflatable mattress I'd ever seen.

"What do you mean, you did research?" I ask while I peruse his old ticket stubs. Poor guy had to sit through a Knicks game.

"I'd lived my whole life in New Jersey," he tells me while simultaneously checking his text messages. "Not that I don't love New Jersey. My family's there, my friends, it's all good. But I'm young. I'm 23 years old. Life's too short. You never know what can happen, so you gotta get it while you can."

"Indeed."

"Actually, dude, the truth is, last year my mom died."

"Aw, man, that sucks. Sorry to hear that."

"Yeah, man, cancer. Totally sucks. AND my grandmother died not long after that. Plus my girlfriend at the time, her grandmother died too. So that was 3 big deaths, right in a row like that. And it just made me think...I gotta get out and live, man. I gotta do some cool shit while I'm young. I wanna experience life. I wanted to live somewhere new, somewhere I've never been before."

"And your research told you Austin was gonna be the best place for you?"

"Yeah. Well...I was looking at Miami. San Diego. But this place...I just kept hearing good things about it. So I moved out here 2 months ago, I got a transfer with my job and it's been great. I don't know of any other place in America that has so many things to do
and the people are cool. Everyone's chill here, y'know? It's got those hardcore hippie types. But even the people who aren't hippies, they're havin' the hippie vibe rub off on 'em."

Lee has short dark hair and is a HUGE Knicks fan. The only thing hippie about him is his fondness for the hippie lettuce. He showed up in Austin not knowing a soul. The day he moved here was the first time he'd ever set foot in Austin.

"So you like it here I take it?" I ask him, pretty certain of his answer. "You feel like you made the right decision?"

He looks around his apartment, the pigsty prince surveying his kingdom
— quite possibly the happiest man in town.

"Dude," Lee gushes. "Austin is cool as fuck."

...

Friday, August 13, 2010

mr. cab driver


SO HOW ARE YOU LIKING AUSTIN? What's it like out there? Do you miss California? What the hell are you doing driving a cab?!

People keep asking me these things. So instead of answering these queries each and every time, I figured I'd start yet another blog, this one focused on my new life as a cab driver in Austin. How exactly I came to drive a cab in Austin is a tale I've already told many times to my hundreds of customers over the last 2 months. It goes something like this:

I moved to Texas in March to work on a documentary about a certain iconic rock 'n roll star. (I'm pretty sure I didn't sign a non-disclosure agreement on this, but just in case...) This long-dead, Texas-bred Rock Icon spent some time in Austin went to UT for a while, made her mark all over town and I moved to Austin to work on a documentary about her. Back in LA I'd been hired to help the director, whose last documentary got an Oscar nomination, write up a treatment that helped the film get the blessings of the notoriously-hard-to-please family of the long-dead, Texas-bred Rock Icon.

The LA-based producers were going to announce the project at this year's South-by-Southwest film and music festival. Thus my purchase of a one-way ticket to Austin, where I'd be joining my girlfriend, Tamale, who graduated from UT about 15 years ago and had moved back to Texas a year ago. I was told that I was in the budget as the writer and I could expect to participate in the project.

Well, about a week into my stay it became apparent that the project was temporarily on hold. The music rights were more expensive than the producers had anticipated and they needed to work some things out.

Two months later, they still hadn't worked things out.

And I was driving a cab in Austin.

.
..
...

"Let me ask you something."

I didn't get a good look at him, but I think the guy in the backseat is wearing a T-shirt and a baseball cap. Maybe army fatigues. Within seconds of flagging me down at MLK and Lavaca he tells me he's drunk. Then he tells me he just got back from Iraq about 3 months ago.

"Are you okay talking about it? Do people ask you about it? Do you even want to get into it?

"You know, it's funny you should ask," he says. "I just started talking about it 3 weeks ago. I'm seeing someone for PTSD."

"So how's that going? Is it good? Do you mind me asking you all these questions?"

"Nah, man. It's cool."

"What about your friends? Do they ask you? Do you they want to hear about it?"

"You know what, man? Most people, most of my friends, they'll ask me, 'So . . . did it suck?' And I'm like . . ."

I glance into the mirror. I watch him get a faraway look in his eyes. Trying to think of the words to describe what he's feeling.

"Did it suck? No, you know what sucks? Getting your car towed for parking tickets sucks. Getting your stereo ripped off sucks. Going into a war zone . . . watching people get killed . . . trying not to get killed yourself . . . Does it suck? No. It more than just sucks."

He goes on to tell me his name is Kevin. He's in town from Chicago with his girlfriend and, I think, his aunt. Kevin says he was a sargentone of the leadersand did 2 tours in Iraq, where he was combat the whole time. He says he's always been fascinated with social science. "The way governments and countries work," he says as we drive down Guadalupe.

When Kevin went into the Army he says he was a true blue neo-conservative Republican. "I thought I was informed, I studied the issues, I voted for George Bush. Twice. But after what I experienced in Iraq . . ."

Again, he pauses. Looking for the right words? Instinctively scanning the thumbnails of his mind, seeing images he'd rather not look at?

"After what I saw in Iraq, I've done a complete 180."

"But why? What made you change your perspective? Was there one incident that crystalized it for you?"

"No," he tells me. "It was gradual. But I just . . . I started asking myself WHY? Why are we destroying this culture? Why are we losing American lives? For what? It's not making a difference. In Iraq, Afghanistan, it's not helping things dropping bombs and killing people. I saw it with my own 2 eyes. We're spending all this money on destroying things over there. For what? We should be spending that money here, where people are suffering, where people are out of work. We need to use that money here. Not over there. It makes no fucking sense, man!"

.
..
...

When I drop Kevin off at the Hilton Gardens we end up parked for another 10 minutes, exchanging email addresses with promises to stay in touch. He says he's got several thousand digital pictures he took in Irag of everyday life. The stuff you don't see on the news.

"Man, you gotta share your story," I tell him. "Get it on video."

He seems reluctant. Maybe the pictures will have to do. Or maybe it's just that no one's ever asked. Personally, I'm interested in what makes a person do a complete 180 like that.

"The good thing is," I add, "we're at a point in history where there is no one holding you back from telling your version of the truth. The gatekeepers can't keep you quiet any more. You get a video camera and throw it up on YouTube, and you get enough people telling their glimpses of the truth, that's how things are gonna change. The facts can't be ignored anymore, not if people like you report back on what you see."

"Yeah, you're right."

I'm quite done with him.

"It takes being in the middle of a big story, something that's getting a lot of news coverage, to really understand how the mainstream media gets it so fucking wrong, how the truth gets manipulated and distorted and twisted into lies and half-truths."

I was thinking in my case about my experience helping my friends open and run their medical marijuana dispensary back in LA, the other job I had before I moved out here to Austin.

But that's another story for another day.

More stories from the cab to come.

And hopefully a link to Kevin's Iraq photos.

Time to hit the streets.

It's Friday night in Austin.

...